Sacred Staircases, Ancient Wines and a City That Punches Above Its Weight
Nestled in a valley of vineyards above the Douro, Lamego is one of Portugal's most rewarding small cities - home to a baroque staircase sanctuary that rivals Bom Jesus, a 12th-century cathedral, a remarkable museum of Flemish tapestries, and a centuries-old sparkling wine tradition. Few places in Portugal pack this much quality into such a compact and beautiful space.
Lamego's crowning glory is the baroque pilgrimage staircase of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios - 686 steps climbing a wooded hillside through ten landings of chapels, fountains, and allegorical statuary to a rococo church at the summit. Every September, tens of thousands of pilgrims arrive for the great festival, many ascending on their knees as an act of devotion. The panoramic view from the church terrace over Lamego and the surrounding vineyards is magnificent.
One of the oldest cathedrals in Portugal, Lamego's Sé was founded in the 12th century - tradition holds that it was here, in 1143, that the first Cortes (parliament) of Portugal was held, recognising Afonso Henriques as king. The cathedral tower is Romanesque, the cloister Gothic, and the interior has been layered with chapels and decoration across nine centuries. The adjacent diocesan museum houses extraordinary Flemish tapestries and Gil Vicente altarpieces.
Long before Champagne made sparkling wine fashionable, Lamego was producing espumante - a naturally sparkling wine made by the traditional method using the Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes of the Beiras. The Caves da Raposeira, founded in 1898, is the oldest sparkling wine producer in Portugal and offers tours and tastings in its atmospheric underground cellars. The region's still wines - from the Douro and Dão denominations - are equally worth exploring.
High above the city, the ruined castle of Lamego commands extraordinary views over the Douro Valley and its vine-covered slopes. Built on pre-Roman foundations and successively modified by Moors, Leonese, and Portuguese rulers, the castle was the site of Afonso Henriques's first great military triumph in 1139. The tower and walls are largely intact, and the climb through the old quarter below - a maze of narrow streets lined with traditional houses - is as rewarding as the destination.
One of Portugal's most underrated cities - those who know, love it
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